13 January, 2008

stand up for your rights


a beautiful left like that and he's not even riding it goofy foot!
i ask you, is that right ??
(and you'd say no! it's left !!)
sweet day at steamer lane, saturday 12 jan 08



making the most of a big easy right, steamer lane saturday at sunset 12 jan 08

mav's got all the attention this weekend- and i saw the photos, it was incredible. i'm
so glad i wasn't there though, not this year. it'll never be the quiet aficionados and locals
only event that it was just a few short years ago. now, if it's good at maverick's, it's great
everywhere else, and if it's great at maverick's, santa cruz is probably insane and
uncrowded. it was.

it was four straight days of unbelievable shape, incredible sets, ridiculously
beautiful surf everywhere i went from thursday to today, 70 miles of coast from
the presidio to the lane, from the golden gate bridge to natural bridges, everywhere
in between, and break after break, every one, going off perfectly. extraordinary.
here's just one picture of a thousand that i took of perfect waves- and there was
everything: rights, lefts, barrel after barrel, breakers, 2-3 foot fun stuff, double overheads,
and men riding mountains at maverick's- it was wicked.

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